"Bandh" on the run...

"Bandh" is Hindi word meaning closed, and closed meaning entire nation of Nepal. Today, my alleged day to leave this beautiful country, 18 left wing parties including the Maoist have called for a one-day strike to disrupt some political gathering. Quite peaceful in Boudhnath where I am at the moment, but they are torching some taxis a few miles away. The driver says, "Not a problem, I know "secret" way to airport--Me thinks it's driver bonus time!

I'm Cake

I've had a sea of tea, a mall of dal, and I have gone the distance. My daily Imodium is no longer optional and my polluted sinuses resemble a West Virginia coal mine. Instead of SDRs (Surveillance Detection Routes) like the old days, I now make sure the driver knows his DPRs (Diahrhea Protection Routes) so I can always bail and make a run for it. This morning there was a line of Sherpas at the house bringing me "small" packages to deliver to family members in New York. Enroute home tomorrow,I plan a high colonic in Bahrain, some weak tea in London, and plain boiled potatoes in Cork. The restaurant party sponsored by our New York guy, Mingmar Sherpa, was great fun. 25 Sherpas (ages 3 to 80) and me. It was held at a swank Newari restaurant complete with a pre-dinner floor show of traditional Nepali tribal dances. There was hysterics at the table from the older Sherpa women when a dance troupe of lithe girls (dressed like Sherpas but obviously not) pranced around. The next night was spent with Sonam Sherpa, whose husband Cammy used to work at my "local" in Tribeca, the Liquor Store Bar. Last night, at Lapka's (Gombu's brother) for dinner. He's the family drinker so it was the bottom-less San Miguel beer night. Tonite, I was hoping for a nice quiet evening with Gombu, Sumi, Sonam and Parmila--but honor has intervened and we must dine at Gombu's sister's house. This may be it for a day or two or I could be back right here tomorrow--there may be a nationwide strike shutting things down tomorrow...One never knows, but hopefully the next visit will be the family move here for 2010-2011. In spite of 26.3 million people living in a country the size of Greece, life expectancy of 61 years, female literacy 28% and 82% of the population living on less than $2 per day, Nepal is about its people and I highly encourage a visit. Sorry, didn't mean to be bleeding-heart preachy. I am feeling my time here coming to an end and saying goodbye to my hosts will be beyond difficult.

Chicks and Ducks and Geese better scurry...

...when they spend the afternoon at Dakshinkali. I think today was the last official family sightseeing outing as the next few days will be for some goodbye parties and one last night with Gombu's family. Although this wasn't really a tourist trip, I have seen a pretty good bit of the Kathmandu valley. The two big "misses" this trip were Pokhara (Nepal's second biggest tourist city and a trek--although both were offered, I decided to stay closer to home) Today, we headed to the southern valley of Kathmandu. The morning was spent in Pharping, a traditional Newari village known for its Tibetan Buddhist monasteries. A bit like wandering around Vatican City but exactly the opposite--No Guides, No areas off-limits, lit many candles for loved ones and explored some sacred caves--quite a peaceful morning. After a spot of lunch, we hiked (just 40 minutes worth) down to Dakshinkali,a Hindu temple where plenty of uncastrated male animals were being slaughtered (for their blood only) and then bbqed and eaten a short distance away by the offering family. In hindsight, we might have reversed the order of the day.
On the way home through Kathmandu, we stopped at Bishwa Bhasha campus for International Languages. I had picked up some bar talk that this might be a route for the year-long visa. The place was quite empty and we were told by an instructor that the 3 main student political parties (Nepal, Maoist and Communist) had called a strike due to the on-going student elections that have turned violent at a number of campuses. Indeed, the bar talk was right--I could get a one-year student visa to study the Nepali language three hours a day five days a week. All for the lovely price of $1250 and proof I had $3000 in personal funds. Still going to explore the volunteer route, but good to know this is an option.
Off to a restaurant to be feted or "feasted on" by the Sherpa community. Either way, I am sure that without CW keeping my comments and liquor intake in check, I will make a spectacle of myself!!

Phew!

Finally made it to Mingmar Sherpa's mother's house--Mingmar is currently our Sherpa on the ground in New York and replaced Gombu upon his return to Nepal. The logistics were not working out and I was getting panicked that I would offend her by not making her house one of my first stops. Gombu assured me that once I made the effort I was covered under Sherpa rules of conduct but I am glad it finally turned in to a real meeting this morning--She served myself and Gomba a typical "granny" breakfast: two eggs sunnyside up and tea with Yak butter--yep, tastes like it sounds!
Alot of nodding and smiling and some translation by Gombu. We are joining her at a restaurant for dinner either tonight or tomorrow night and Gombu told me to be prepared for a big crowd as word has gone out that Mingmar's boss is in town. This is when I truly need CW to save the day--her charm appeal is much greater than mine...

I am a man of questionable taste no longer...

A new National Geographic book, "My Favorite Place on Earth" ($22.95) lists some preferred destinations of the "It" people: Tony Wheeler, founder of the Lonely Planet Guide Books, chooses Nepal, and fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi goes for Brooklyn. And our own Rick Steves nails it by choosing El Puerto (Edmonds not Mexico...)

Wouldn't hurt a fly...

Tonight at dinner I was in process of trying to smash a mosquito between my hands when I realized where I was--Buddhists do not kill living creatures--Sumi (Gombu's wife), who I am discovering has a wicked sense of humor, informed me that yes, they do not kill any living creature. I did feel much better, when as an occassional lapsed Catholic, Sumi told me that they make exception for cockroaches.

Decent movie too...

A mini-Monsoon (Film reccommendation: "Monsoon Wedding") hit Kathmandu this afternoon while I was dragging Gombu and driver around in search of long-term visa information and future volunteer opportunities. The good news: the pouring rain sends the motor bikers off the streets in droves so the roads become much more tolerable (I have got better on the white-knucke driving: I simply take an Imodium tablet prior to every journey--the passengers are happy and less laundry for me) The bad news about mini-Monsoon: Gombu's driver, while extremely competent and safe, has a strange aversion to windshield wipers and defroster buttons. Today, feeling my "Dirty Pants" tablet wearing off, I finally reached across and switched on the wipers and fans--My actions were met with an icey glare but I no longer felt like Erwin's tank driver in North Africa.