Traveling Away

My hometown on the Cutting Edge!

2009-08-01T14:15:00.007+01:00

My hometown of Edmonds became the first environmentally friendly town in the State of Washington when the City Council voted this past week to ban plastic bags. And I thought it was the teenagers who allegedly gave the City Council headaches--or is that the other way around?--allegedly... Now, if they could just do something about the Old Bags...Sorry Mom.

Welcome Home!

2009-07-31T16:19:00.011+01:00

Oh New York, we've missed you so. Disembarkation went smoothly and we were off the 'Mary into the Brooklyn Cruise Terminal, clearing Immigration and Customs by 10:00 a.m. Taxi line was a touch chaotic for a "cruise terminal" but we managed to snag a yellow taxi van and we were on our way to the Ravel Hotel in Long Island City--or so we thought. The cab driver's route leaving the terminal was slightly unique but ask a New Yorker for a "perfect route" and you will get a thousand different responses. Under the Taxi Rider Bill of Rights, a driver is requested to follow the passenger's preferred route but most of the time it's a moot point as the New York cab drivers are pretty good (except in the winter when most of them-- who happen to be from countries filled with sand--try to navigate New York's icy streets creating a fair amount of accidents and comedy.) After our jaunt through downtown Brooklyn, our driver begins to head toward the BQE-aka the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway which is anything but--however, a fairly direct route to our hotel. But, instead of getting on the BQE, our driver gets on the Brooklyn Bridge heading into Manhattan. CW and I look at each other and I confirm with our driver he knows the location of our hotel, thinking maybe, just maybe, he misheard me. Nope--he had heard me quite well and then proceeds to tell us that all the cab drivers, when going to Queens, go into Manhattan and then out of Manhattan. The gig is now up and I tell our driver just because we got off the Queen Mary 2 he shouldn't have assumed we were hicks from Edmonds I mean Cork. But he keeps up the routine and heads north up First Avenue in Manhattan--notoriously slow! Well, thanks to Mayor Mike, it's very easy to make complaints about anything in New York City these days--just dial 311--as some of our bar neighbors do. So, I dial 311, I am connected to the Taxi and Limousine Commission, and by the time we are pulling into our hotel, I have an official complaint filed and a future hearing scheduled regarding the driver's actions. Well, about fifteen minutes after driving away, the taxi driver returns and motions me outside. He begs for mercy and I say no go. I think I wasn't giving clemency mostly because my two Dreadful Creatures were made to suffer an extra long trip in a hot taxi. Only in New York, Kids, only in New York...

5:33 a.m. New York City, July 30th, 2009

2009-07-30T11:06:00.004+01:00

from "Here is New York" (1948)
by E. B. White
"There are roughly three New Yorks. There is, first, the New York of the man or woman who was born there, who takes the city for granted and accepts its size, its turbulence as natural and inevitable. Second, there is the New York of the commuter=-the city that is devoured by locusts each day and spat out each night. Third, there is New York of the person who was born somewhere else and came to New York in quest of something. Of these trembling cities the greatest is the last-the city of final destination, the city that is a goal. It is this third city that accounts for New York's high strung disposition, its poetical deportment, its dedication to the arts, and its incomparable achievements. Commuters give the city its tidal restlessness, natives give it solidity and continuity, but the settlers give it passion. And whether it is a farmer arriving from a small town in Mississippi to escape the indignity of being observed by her neighbors, or a boy arriving from the Corn Belt with manuscript in his suitcase and a pain in his heart, it makes no difference:each embraces New York with the intense excitement of first love, each absorbs New York with the fresh yes of an adventurer, each generates heat and light to dwarf the Consolidated Edison Company...

The city, for the first time in its long history, is destructible. A single flight of planes no bigger than a wedge of geese can quickly end this island of fantasy, burn the towers, crumble the bridges, turn the underground passages into lethal chambers, cremate the millions. The imitation of mortality is part of New York now; in the sounds of jets overhead, in the black headlines of the latest editions.

All dwellers in cities must live with the stubborn fact of annihilation; in New York the fact is somewhat more concentrated because of the concentration of the city itself, and because, of all targets, New York has a certain clear priority. In the mind of whatever perverted dreamer might loose the lightning, New York must hold a steady, irresistible charm".

The next adventure begins...

QM2, Atlantic Ocean, Sunday, Juy 26th, 2009 10:14 am.

2009-07-26T12:14:00.003+01:00

"Travel is at its most rewarding when it ceases to be about your reaching a destination and becomes indistinguishable from living your life"

Paul Theroux, 'Ghost Train to the Eastern Star'

Churning through rough seas and gale winds in the Atlantic on the 'Mary. We have suspended reality for a few days as we transition from a 'soft' year in Cork to one in the States that could involve one or two new businesses and the possibility of moving a third. We shall enjoy our voyage and prepare ourselves for the hard slap in the face known as New York City in a few days.

9:42 p.m. July 22 2009 Cork City Ireland

2009-07-23T00:22:00.006+01:00

"The hardest thing to convey is how lovely it all is and how the loveliness seems all you need. The ghosts that haunted you in New York or Pittsburgh will haunt you anywhere you go, because they're your ghosts and the house they haunt is you. But they become disconcerted , shaken, confused for half a minute, and that moment on a December day at four o'clock when you're walking from the bus stop to the rue Saint-Dominique and the lights are twinkling across the river--only twinkling in the bateaux mouches, luring the tourists, but still...you feel as if you've escaped your ghosts if only because, being you, they're transfixed looking at the lights in the trees on the other bank, too, which they haven't seen before, either.
It's true that you can't run awy from yourself. But we were right: You can run away."

"Paris to the Moon", Adam Gopnik

Out of here...

2009-07-23T00:17:00.001+01:00

7 boxes shipped and some suitcases to be checked through--that's our life--though not the important one!

Done!

2009-07-23T00:14:00.000+01:00

Apartment was a great! We would live there again in a minute!

Peanuts and Fantas (and a Pint)

2009-07-23T00:05:00.000+01:00

Wrapping things up...

2009-07-22T23:48:00.004+01:00

One of ODC and my favorite Cork activities was to take the double-decker tour bus around Cork City, get off at the old Cork Jail, take the tour, and then walk to the local pub for peanuts and fantas (and maybe an occasional pint). The other day we took her Irish cousins, life-long Cork City residents...

Inspiring art work...

2009-07-17T08:58:00.004+01:00

but for the tragic subtext of almost 4000 people killed between 1966 and 2005 during the Northern Irish Troubles--and the killings continue. A joint Catholic-Protestant foundation is now replacing some of the more inflammatory murals with artwork offering a bit more hope (while preserving the historic originals in photographs.)

What's in a name?

2009-07-17T08:54:00.004+01:00

There is a reason why one side in the "Troubles" is called Loyalists.

It's raining...

2009-07-17T08:43:00.005+01:00

not cats and dogs but bricks and bottles. All the houses backing up to the "peace walls" in Belfast have the same cage over the back garden offering some protection when the "missiles" manage to make it over.

One final Getaway in "Ireland"

2009-07-17T08:18:00.006+01:00

I have to say, they are quite helpful with the directions should you lose your way wandering around Belfast. Although some rioting was taking place in the evenings following the Orange Order's big day, a person wouldn't have been aware of any problems staying close to city center. Belfast has come along away from not so long ago though the huge gates in the "Peace Walls" separating the Protestant and Catholic neighborhoods still close evenings and weekends. I had a pleasant two day stay in Belfast but every city not Amsterdam is paling in comparison after our recent visit--yes, even Paris. Big weekend ahead: another CW family event: Mother's 80th birthday party--once again I will be happy to be on the sideline supporting CW and gloating again that my family is sooooo perfect. Okay, I might sneak away just for a minute--it's the start of the Tri Nations Rugby Champioships--Australia vs. New Zealand--CW's birth country--I mean really it's my duty. "Family, I'll be right back. Save me a piece of cake!"

Our bags are packed, we're ready to go...

2009-07-12T07:39:00.008+01:00

If only we knew where. What seemed like an obvious choice only weeks ago as to where we would "hang our hats" this coming school year has become a touch more complicated with some recent business developments. So much so we are delaying shipping the seven boxes that we call our lives. (We came with ten--probably pilferage by CW's family at dinner parties). If we let our hearts decide, no doubt we would head immediately to Kathmandu or Paris. But, cooler heads have prevailed, it's time to "do a little business as it were", and as Ray Davies put it, "Captain America calling". Two cities on two different coasts and one distant dark horse. We have hedged our bets with enrollments in various schools, bi-coastal apartment searches, etc..., and we are hoping that the obvious choice presents itself to us--most likely the day after we ship our stuff! We are also considering a split year (Sept.-Dec) on one coast and (Jan.-June) on another--Oh, I can hear my Dreadful Creatures now on Dr. Phil. Well, off to consult the Magic Eight Ball!

TOP TEN GOOD THINGS ABOUT OUR YEAR IN IRELAND:
1. My In-laws (Graciousness that defies description)
2. Weather (Irish people say we hit an unusual year; I think they just like something to complain about)
3. Drinking Culture (Stopping at your local for a pint is customary and considered good form)
4. Cork English Food Market (Better than Seattle's Pike Place and New York's Union Square Farmer's Market)
5. Furnished Apartments (If only we could get those crayon marks off the settee...)
6. Cork Airport (So overbuilt during the Celtic Tiger Years that it is laughable but so easy and convenient)
7. Irish Bureaucracy (77000 yes thousand Irish Civil Servants added in the last ten years and they want to preserve their jobs err help you.
8. Access to Europe: Quick, Easy, Cheap
9. Irish Radio (None of that "play to the demographic b.s., actually good music and thought provoking chat)\
10.Rural Pubs (Patrons standing at the end of the evening for the National Anthem warms the heart almost as well as a pint of Guinness or Murphys or Beamish)

All right it hasn't all been rosey (but the positive far outweighs the negative)--
TOP TEN DISAPPOINTING THINGS ABOUT OUR YEAR IN IRELAND:
1. Expensive (Paris a bargain compared? Damn straight!)
2. Drivers (Aggressive and not good; still think they are on country lanes)
3. Bar Aesthetics (The one Cork Publican with any sense of style has the market sewn up with his several cool establishments)
4. Lack of variety in Food and Drink Options (French Bistro anyone?)
5. Barriers to opening a bar (Strong Publican lobby keeps the License Fees sky high but they have been falling)
6. Parochial Thinking (I guess no surprise here given the derivative of the word)
7. Law Enforcement (It's not the Garda, it's the politicians that have given them no power to go after RICO Investigations and Public Corruption--oh, I guess there isn't any...)
8. Politicians (Father, then son, then his son, then his son--in-breeding at its finest)
9. Gurriers (Cork Hooligan Punks who are more obnoxious than threatening with their bad haircuts and blond highlights)
10. Newspapers (Even though they thoughtfully published pictures of both my Dreadful Creatures, nothing like the Gray Old Lady)

Sweet Dreams...

2009-07-07T00:41:00.005+01:00

Home to Cork from Holland on late night flight from Schiphol (best airport in Europe) and I feel like they look--first extended "non-work" trip without Dreadful Creatures was heavenly but I did miss the ugly runts a bit. Sixteen Days left in Ireland and not really counting. It's been a fantastic year highlighted by all the time the creatures have spent with their Irish Grandparents who will have both turned eighty this year. Packing this week, last visit to Dado in Kilkenny next week (I may slip off to Belfast a couple of those days), and our final week celebrating CW's moms 80th with all of the family. We leave Cork July 23 to Southhampton and then onto the Boat on the 24th! God willing, arrive our beloved Brooklyn July 30th. Goodnight and Good luck!

Hey, where's the phone?

2009-07-07T00:32:00.000+01:00

No, that I can find...

Is CW seeing Rick Steves behind my back?

2009-07-07T00:26:00.002+01:00

Obviously she went to that special packing course offered by the aforementioned pot-smoking Travel Guru from Edmonds. A couple of bags, a couple of bikes, great weather, raw herring with onions, etc, etc, etc..--a memorable trip around Amsterdam, Volendam and Marken!

Dutch Pop...

2009-07-07T00:09:00.003+01:00

Now that's what I call a vending machine. As our days in Ireland dwindle to single digits, my wonderful in-laws are putting on a major charm offensive. Shortly after arriving home from our restful week in the country- and sea-sides, our children were taken from us by my sister-in-law Mary and her partner Kevin, and myself and CW were forced on a plane for a three day/two night trip to Amsterdam sans Dreadful Creatures.

Time for an upgrade...

2009-07-07T00:01:00.002+01:00

After a number of noisy nights (I am not complaining) spent in rooms over pubs on our Irish tour, it was time for an upgrade. Our last night before heading home was in the Killarney Malton Hotel. The jumpy thing happened to be in their front yard and Older Dreadful Creature had a ball!

The Plassy has crashee..

2009-07-06T23:52:00.005+01:00

In 1960 the freighter Plassy wrecked on Inisheer. Hopefully the viewing by Older Dreadful Creature will help her appreciate the QM2 a touch more...

And so does Daddy...

2009-07-06T23:49:00.001+01:00

Watch it with the hook matey!

Yo ho ho and a bottle...

2009-07-06T23:42:00.001+01:00

Younger Dreadful creature plays with pirates on the beach...

Spa Day for a six-year old...

2009-07-06T23:38:00.001+01:00

Older Dreadful Creature enjoys a restorative seaweed bath on the beach in Ballybunion, County Kerry.

Ride 'Em Pony...

2009-07-06T23:31:00.001+01:00

The two Dreadful Creatures tour the Island in a pony trap.

Rough seas and a visit to the Irish-speaking Aran Islands...

2009-07-06T23:24:00.001+01:00

The previous day (one of the hottest of the year), we spent in the Aillwee Caves, 600 meters into the the Burren moutains. This day (rainy and windy) was spent on a ferry to the Island of Inisheer. All a bit green but no bags required!

A home in the country....

2009-07-06T23:20:00.001+01:00

A few restful days at a beautiful cottage...

No more pencils...

2009-06-26T15:44:00.003+01:00

No more books, No more teachers dirty looks! School is out for the summer! Well, if the photo I snapped on Kate's first day of school this past September says, "Phew, those nuns were a bit rough", today's photo probably says, "Yeah, Sister, I got your lot figured out--I read the Ryan report!" Today is a wrap on St. Maries of the Isle, a school we are going to miss much more than we would have imagined last September. Just lovely teachers and staff, more cultural diversity than the 7 train to Queens, and an Administration that says nary a word about Kate's "travel habits" as she missed a fair amount of days this year learning life lessons on the road with her vagabond parents. Off to celebrate in County Clare to a lovely cottage that our Kansas City cousins have graciously given us for the week!

No Italian Required!

2009-06-13T09:46:00.002+01:00

The Children's Disco started at 8:30 p.m.--followed by huge zucchero filatos (Cotton Candy) which guaranteed no sleep for the DCs!

Breakfast of Champions...

2009-06-13T09:43:00.001+01:00

He keeps that up and he's going to look more like Papa than he wants to...

Rome, Italy Midnight, Friday June 5, 2009

2009-06-13T08:32:00.016+01:00

A week in Italy started in Cork last Friday with a ten minute taxi ride to airport, three hour flight to Rome, thirty minutes to city, steps to the hostel, twenty minutes with some room key issues, and then on the streets of Rome by 10:30 p.m. for pizza and gelato with the Dreadful Creatures. While "popping" over to the Continent for these short excursions is great, always a touch longer in reality than theory. We almost sent the DCs to the streets by themselves when we realized the cooler (and much younger) guests at the Fawlty Towers Hostel were having a rooftop cocktail party, but we relented and confessed we were in fact parents of two young children.
Caught the morning train to Venice and a slight travel odyssey began. A 4 1/2 hour train journey became 6 1/2 hours with track electrical problems, arrival in Venice was a mass of tourists and poorly labeled water taxis (Don't these people speak English?). After several false starts, we arrive at Punta Sabboni, a short vaporetto ride away from Venice. Boarded the local bus and confidently using our Rick Steves bad Italian asked the driver to drop us off at our holiday camp, Ca' Savio. About twenty minutes into the journey we begin to get an uneasy feeling and sure enough we passed the camp about five minutes after the bus journey started. Off the bus, darkness is falling, the suitcase rollers are broken, the DCs have lost the plot, and numerous promises to the ODC about what we will buy her if she just keeps walking (Turns out a 42 Euro stuffed Cheetah at Termini Station in Rome--ouch!). 60 minutes later we arrive and are kindly given a golf cart ride to our bungalow on a sprawling campground/resort complex. Lodging is great but Italians do not provide sheets (nor toilet paper). No worries, Italians do have incredible campground cafes and by midnight we are eating pizza and gelato with the DCs in a repeat of our previous night in Rome--and a few bottles of 2 Euro wine as well. The next four days involve croissants, espressos, wine, pools, water slides, children's late night discos, pizza, pizza etc.. (oh, did I mention pizza) --the Italians do know how to camp--my memories of childhood camping at Lake Wenatchee see like distant bad memories. The "adults" plans to take turns visiting Venice soon evaporate into a lazy Italian camping week. On to Milan for two days for a restaurant show (basically ham and cheese) but great city and subway system. Then the night train from Milan to Rome--morning delivery of 4 croissants, 4 espressos, and 4 Italian newspapers by a grumpy Woody Allen look-a-like conductor--they start the caffeine habit early here. A day of sights in Rome and then home last night--ice cream and pizza at midnight again--this time in Cork.
Well, I should say three of us are home. We left CW at the Rome Airport last night--she flew on to Barcelona to meet her sisters and mom for an 80th birthday cruise on the Med. She's gone for ten days and I am babysitting her kids--so wrong, so very wrong...

And yet more rugby...

2009-06-13T08:26:00.001+01:00

We are very much aware that our easy access to Europe will soon be denied with our pending move to New York. In that spirit, I popped over to London for the day a couple of Saturdays ago to watch the England rugby team play the Barbarians at Twickenham. Out the door at ten a.m. and back by midnight.

Ronaldo? Messi?

2009-05-27T16:07:00.006+01:00

Nor did I have a clue who these two were until a few days ago when I learned that my alternative to watching the Champions League Final tonight between Manchester United and Barcelona was to attend a second family reunion dinner with CW, her mother, her father and two sisters. Since then, I have been attempting to convince CW that I have always been a closet football (soccer to you Americans) fan. CW is quite skeptical but when I just happened to mention in conversation her brother's team was relegated (Newcastle) she started to believe. Whereas my love of rugby both playing and watching is well-documented. So much so we spent Saturday evening in a Cork bar with our friends visiting from Holland watching Leinster (Irish) beat Leicester (English) in the Heineken (Dutch) Cup Final. And whether fan or not, tonight's game is bigger than the Super Bowl--at least for these European types--so it's an adventure to be here watching this game. Well, must be going. Have to read "Idiots Guide to Soccer" I mean football. Dreadful Creatures? Don't worry--they will be safe with internet sitter tonight!

Casual Fridays (i.e. track suit)

2009-05-22T00:51:00.002+01:00

ODC attempts to break out of St. Maries of the Isle for quick run to "Forever 21"

Another successful St. Patrick's Day...

2009-05-22T00:33:00.002+01:00

As our friend Paul Sanchez (www.paulsanchez.com) sings, "What's an Irish boy from a good family doing in the gutter?"

Feeding Time...

2009-05-22T00:31:00.002+01:00

Visiting hours at YDC's school!

Suffer the Children...

2009-05-22T00:08:00.004+01:00

The Irish Child Abuse Commission's report came out today (www.irishtimes.com) and as expected the findings of "savage and institutional abuse at the hands of religious orders" have sickened and saddened this nation of Catholics. On the brighter side, these "secret" photos from the Dreadful Creatures respective schools appear to show things have lightened up somewhat:
1) That's YDC getting a few lashes from the Headmaster for sitting in a square position during "Circle Time"
2) That's ODC in Overnight Detention for wearing her i-pod in class.

I read the news today oh boy....

2009-05-20T22:39:00.005+01:00

and saw our Older Dreadful Creature in the Irish Independent newspaper commemorating the Irish famine at her school, St. Maries of the Isle--that's her in the middle--doesn't look underfed to me! (n.b. Edmonds: Claire and Isabelle aren't the only kids with a stage mom shamelessly promoting her brats to the media!)

Twenty-twenty-twenty fours hour to go, I wanna be....

2009-05-20T22:11:00.008+01:00

in Dublin. This is getting scarey--My sister-in-law and partner (parents of two daughters ages 9 and 11 here in Cork) insisted CW and myself go to Dublin for the night wtihout the Dreadful Creatures--our very very first "complete" night away from the Younger Dreadful Creature YDC (I mean we have stayed out until 4 am but that's in town). So CW and I hopped a train to Dublin (3 hour ride north) and checked into the Trinity Capital Hotel near of course Trinity College (picked up application for ODC--cheaper than Harvard with all that Irish socialism.) A few arrival drinks in the hotel bar, a decent dinner at Balzac, and then off to a Dermot Bolger play about the notorious Dublin slum of Ballymun-- "The Mun"! Where was the play performed? In Ballymun in what appears to be a experiment involving poverty, crime and the arts. As an added treat, our dear friend Mick Judd was one of the actors in the play (Irish fellow who returned to Dublin in 2001 after ten plus years in New York). The play was a great social history of Ballymun and afterward we had a drink with cast and director--CW was an actor in Ireland and NYC for many years so she was in her element--and I of course acted up and made particularly insightful critiques about the performance that I am sure were well received by the cast members. Mick dropped us off at hotel and I drug CW to Kehoe's--a traditional Dublin pub that had fantastic Guinness and happened to stay open an hour past the usual 11:30 pm official pub closing time--great last night, not so great this morning! Walked around Dublin, met Mick for lunch, quick pint at the International Bar, and back on train to Cork, home by 7 pm. Picked up creatures! Not bad for 24 hours plus--eat your heart out Jack Bauer! That's the hotel's Do Not Disturb Sign which I "borrowed".

Sunset in County Kilkenny

2009-05-14T23:46:00.002+01:00

I am pure city but rural Ireland is where it's at--both character and characters!

Steppin Out

2009-05-14T23:03:00.010+01:00

Yes, that's Dado (Irish for Grandfather and my father-in-law) in his ball cap (no one in Ireland appears to wear traditional caps anymore except our son whose caps we have to buy in the States because they don't sell them here) on the last day of his 80th Birthday Party. It was somewhat like what I imagine an Irish wake to be like--except Dado was still very much alive--Myself, CW, and the Dreadful Creatures arrived in Knocktopher, County Kilkenny after a two hour drive from Cork City. The rain was pouring, the wind was howling, and CW and her brother began to put up our tent--Dado's house is quite small (and CW's sister had pretty much taken the one guest room==can't wait until that will is adjudicated) I did the right thing and retired to the local pub--I like hotels and I like camping--I don't like the in-between white-trash backyard version in my father-in-law's backyard. I proceed to tell my local Publican, Eamom, my circumstances and he happens to mention gale force wind forecasts and an apartment above the pub that he doesn't rent, but..if I'm (we're???) stuck, feel free to ask. Oh, I ask, and then I ask the rate--his answer, "Well. I wouldn't be robbing yeh"--I figure that's about 50-100 Euro a night. I call CW with the news and I get lucky--at this point the wind has bent the tent stakes and she's ready to move a few miles up the road. The next few days involve alot of party prep (Was it so wrong to ask if the estranged sister was splitting the costs with us--of course now it seems like a bad idea but...) Most importantly, at the end of every night, I get to put my kids to bed and wander downstairs with CW to the pub for a nightcap(s)--and, the band plays the Irish national anthem at the end of the night for which everyone is required to stand. (Old School). Dados 80th birthday party went on until 7 am the next morning. I begged out with the two dreadful creatures fairly early and CW joined us a few hours later. God Bless Dado--he had the CW's mother show up as a surprise (Dado hadn't spoken to his ex in 15 years) as well as an estranged daughter with her family (She and Dado hadn't spoken in ten years) Lots of tears, hugs, and all that family s#4%! And I got to watch from afar. The photo is of Dado, his ex, his kids and grandkids! The three outlaws (including myself) are off in the distance happily drinking and murmuring luckily our families aren't so f'd up!

"Today is my Birthday...

2009-05-03T21:10:00.002+01:00

Gonna have a good time!" The Older Dreadful Creature turned older today--all of 6 and we had the non-traditional Irish Birthday Party--sunshine all around. Current Wife's family provided the presents, the cake, the food and drink (the traditional Irish part). Great time all around. Cake by Christina Favier, candles by Kate!

"I ain't missing you at all!"

2009-05-03T15:17:00.004+01:00

I have made it back to Ireland and my son was overjoyed to see me as you can see! My daughter-- she's at her cousins' house. Off to her birthday party so kindly hosted by Louise's family. Great to be loved! Note Irish tan on Younger Dreadful Creature!

What's wrong with this picture?

2009-05-03T15:07:00.003+01:00

Well, that's the British Airlines check-in counter less than two hours before my scheduled flight on Thursday--this flight is very empty or as I came to find out, had already left. Two hours later of "nice" conversation with British Airlines, I am heading back to Seattle with a British Air-financed night/day of the White Horse Tavern, the Ace Hotel, and Matt's on the Market. They have re-booked me the following day and I will still make the ODC's birthday party!

"I'm Pregnant!"

2009-05-03T15:00:00.003+01:00

No, the other two words that a father never wants to hear from his daughter, "American Girl". On my way out of Edmonds the other day, Teri of Teri's Toy Box generously provided with me this doll so I will arrive home a hero in Ireland for my soon-to-be six-year-old's birthday party on Sunday (May 3rd). I have however scouted out the flagship American Girl store in Manhattan with our impending move back to New York--49th and 5th--to avoid any misunderstandings and a chance spotting by the six-year-old, we'll take 48th Street thank you very much!

'Sitting in this airplane station...

2009-04-28T00:23:00.003+01:00

ticket for my destination. Homeward bound. Not. Oh, the joy of changing tickets and boarding that flight to Shannon or Dublin and calling it a day. But Seattle beckons where a few more meetings await. My travel is approaching the level of my days with the "Government" and they start playing the theme from Cheers when I walk into the JFK Terminal 5 Bar. Oh well, all on behalf of the family. While I have nothing on paper yet, I am getting closer and closer to sealing at least one of these potential bar deals--please hurry, my liver is getting impatient for some rest!

Shady Park, Long Island City, New York 4:42 p.m. April 27

2009-04-28T00:11:00.006+01:00

Though we are still talking through the various options, the neighborhood of L.I.C. remains our most likely destination upon our return to New York in August. Although we no longer own a bar in the neighborhood, it's a manageable walk to Greenpoint, the train (subway) is 4 minutes to Grand Central Station (and the rest of Manhattan), and it has several parks like this one where you can basically leave your kid by yelling, "Hey, I'm leaving my kid". L.I.C. also has the preschool, Little Ones, that Older Dreadful Creature (ODC) attended--that makes YDC a legacy so in spite of his deficiencies, they have to take him! It's a neighborhood where we have no chance of being anonymous which is one of our few trepidations about returning.

Central Park New York April 24th 1:57 p.m

2009-04-27T15:24:00.004+01:00

"Come, my Friends, 'Tis not too late to seek a newer world. Push off, and sitting well in order smite the sounding furrows; for my purpose holds to sail beyond the sunset, and the baths of the western stars until I die. It may be the gulfs will wash us down: It may be we shall touch the Happy Isles."
Tennyson
My dear friend, New York City resident and world traveler, Bill Wormington, reached a final resting place this weekend when we spread his ashes among the cherry trees in Central Park.

Day 'Trippin

2009-04-17T16:43:00.012+01:00

1. That's the Dreadful Creatures enjoying 100 Euro Room Service and the million dollar view (of Cartoon Network).
2 The big white building in the distance is our seaside hotel, the Cliff House, in Ardmore, County Waterford
Kate is on her second week of school holiday, I leave for the 'States tomorrow, so yesterday we decided to head to the beach for the "day" for a change in scenery. Nine years ago CW and I had splendid overnight in the seaside town of Ardmore in County Waterford. We were on our way from CW's father's to CW's mother's and I decided I should have some down time. The tiny town of Ardmore (pop. 415) met my requirements: local PUB, bistro with non-Irish undercooked food, beach, cheap B and B and the best chips I have had to date: served piping hot, in a plain brown bag with lots of salt, steps from the beach. We thought (9 years later): our kids will like this! The drive from Cork City: 52 minutes--perfect! Found a beach with a playground, bought a picnic lunch at local shop, did a "scare-rafying" windy cliff walk, and then decided too far to drive back to Cork, must stay the night. Checked out all cheap accommodation and found they were still closed for the season. Then checked out only open hotel in Ardmore: the 5 star Cliff House. CW and I decided we would stay if we came within 5 Euros of guessing the price--we both came in at 170 Euros per night. I went in (left CW and Dreadful Creatures in car) and inquired. Pleasant plump (PP) girl quoted me a rate of 170 Euros (spot on) and then I f***ed up and mentioned we had children in tow. She then said an extra rollaway bed would be an additional 70 Euro (which by no rationale put this place out of our price range). Asked if we could forego extra bed and save 70 Euros, PP said she would have to check. Went back to car, told CW story, and she went in. Unbeknownst to me, she dealt with Skinny Minny Mean Girl (SMMG) who said extra bed was mandatory (as well as 70 Euro charge) and then told CW that "did she mind, she had guests to check in". CW came back out, gave me details, and we decided that 52 minute drive back to Cork was a bit too much for us to handle. I went back in to hotel, asked SMMG if they had any rooms, she said, "Two adults?", I said "Yes", and she said, "Lovely, 170 Euros". At that moment, PP came up and said, "Oh, you will be needing the extra bed", SMMG said, "No just two adults". I looked at PP, She looked at me, didn't say anything, and I guiltily took my "unofficial" discount. To celebrate our good fortune, I took the family to the local pub and we celebrated with two pints and two Fantas. Back to 5 Star Cliff House, I went in, got key, and CW and children went up via side stairs. Usual hotel arrival ritual: CW bathes Dreadful Creatures, I retire to bar to source out scene--pretty well-groomed crowd (Is that Bono and his son?). Two 6 Euro pints of Carlsberg, back to room, and order room service. I decide that we should do a family movie and order "Role Models" on Pay-per-View. Uh, not so appropriate, DCs fall asleep, and CW and I head to bar (We didn't leave DCs unattended--left my cell phone on in room and took CW's phone to bar-if Cartoon Network was replaced by screams over phone, time to ask for check.) Had a lovely drink, back to sleeping creatures, and home today. Have decided to buy cottage in Ardmore once we quit our 5 Star Hotel habit and have discovered Hotel did not charge us for our 100 Euro Dinner--Strangely enough, we are going to call and report their mistake. Go figure! Oh, that would be the door-hey, it's my last night in town--of course we have a babysitter!

Withdrawal Symptoms...

2009-04-15T11:05:00.003+01:00

Yes, it's that time of the year when we begin to get ready to switch cities or countries. I gave notice at Jack's creche (Irish for daycare) place today. His last day will be July 15th. Also, enrolled Kate in a week-long day camp (July 6-10) so CW and myself can go out (and pack of course).

The Meek shall inherit...

2009-04-15T10:56:00.004+01:00

passports, lots of passports. In addition to expiring leases on a bunch of bars and a bunch of stuff acquired in our travels in those bars' basements, our children are inheriting basically nothing (Well, a big life insurance policy if we crash and burn on one of our childless trips) We have managed however to secure them both US and EU passports with New Zealand (CW's birth country) ones in the works. That gives them a fairly wide range of live/work/school possibilities. I mean, how many countries can you fail in?--well, they are our kids!

WW"Oprah"D?

2009-04-14T12:14:00.001+01:00

What? Isn't this what every absentee parent does upon return from their travels? Oh, this isn't a toy store this is Kate's bedroom.

A pint of Easter...

2009-04-13T08:14:00.003+01:00

Easter is a pretty big deal in Catholic Ireland (as evidenced by all the pubs in the entire country being closed on Good Friday). The adjustment of going from the peacefulness of the Third World to the chaos of the First World (and the two Dreadful Creatures) has been at times a touch rough. CW and DCs fled to her sister's house for an overnight on Friday and with the pubs being closed, I had my own international night at home: New York Mets on the radio, Read Inspector Rebus, and drank a couple of French Lagers. Things have leveled for the moment: CW and DCs went to Granny Vi's for Easter Dinner and I went and watched rugby: two big wins for the Irish in the aptly named Heineken Cup.

Goodbye to Pelu Sherpa (and Nepal)!

2009-04-13T08:09:00.002+01:00

Goodbye to Gombu!

2009-04-13T08:08:00.002+01:00

My hosts!

2009-04-13T08:05:00.000+01:00

Gombu, Sumi, Parmila and Sonam

Say no more...

2009-04-08T17:07:00.003+01:00

and I know many of you wish I would take my own advice...especially after that last post...I plead jet lag punchiness! Signing off for now...

Rules Rules Rules

2009-04-08T16:29:00.003+01:00

Boudhnath, where we would be living if we move to Nepal, is obviously a conservative town, but is 3 really necessary?

Madness!

2009-04-08T16:09:00.004+01:00

Gombu covered my vices and then some when he selected the guest house in Nagarkot after our hike...

No Bar too Far

2009-04-08T15:15:00.003+01:00

Yes, even high up in the Himalaya's--now that's the oxygen I'm talking about...Nargarkot, Nepal.

This is not Goodbye...

2009-04-08T08:55:00.005+01:00

These are the two little angels that made leaving Nepal even more difficult. Sonam, on the right, is Gombu and Sumi's daugther whom they adopted when she was born in Kathmandu. They then left her with Gombu's sister for seven years while they worked in New York. Parlima joined the family two months ago. She's a Rai (vs. Sherpa) from the hills of eastern Nepal. Her father, whom Gombu knows from his climbing days, asked Gombu and Sumi to take Parlima because he had too many mouths to feed. Her hair Sumi finally had to shave because of the large amount of creatures tangled inside.

"No stop signs, speed limit...

2009-04-08T08:46:00.004+01:00

I'm on a highway to.... Somewhat disconcertingly, Gombu and I were walking towards whatever these monks were walking away from. Chinese army maybe?

Spring is in the Air...

2009-04-08T08:15:00.002+01:00

Hey, just like the "fresh water" geeks at 164th Street in Lynnwood, Washington!

Time for my shower..

2009-04-08T07:56:00.002+01:00

Came across this fellow when I walked to Pashupatinath for the day. The village has Nepal's most important Hindu temple and the Bagmati River where funeral pyres are constantly burning. This guy certainly plays the off-season at Fisherman's Wharf San Francisco based on his "well-versedness" in "rupees for photo" routine.

Daphnes etiquette adjustments..

2009-04-08T07:47:00.001+01:00

Better than "Main Street Kids" or "Little Ones"

2009-04-08T07:39:00.001+01:00

Why Jack wants to move to Nepal...

Pelu Sherpa

2009-04-08T07:28:00.003+01:00

Gombu's mother and notorious incense smuggler (and married...note apron)

Kate Sherpa...

2009-04-08T07:18:00.004+01:00

in traditional Sherpa dress and ready to make move anywhere her parents will continue to remain "under" employed. A striped apron will go over the dress once she is married. (Note: If ever invited to Sherpa wedding, don't eat the wedding cake, don't even go there--sorry Sumi!)

Do you know the Muffin Man...

2009-04-08T06:40:00.006+01:00

Like the many Egg Men of Kathmandu who prowl the streets early in the morning, I too I am feeling a touch delicate after twenty-four hours of travel. But I am home safe, the dreadful creatures are well, and CW continues to eye the calendar for April 18 when I depart again to Seattle/New York. The trip to Tribhuvan Airport was uneventful, though the streets were eerily quiet. Driver's "secret" way through roadblocks: a crudely written sign, "Tourist Only" in front window. The airport was a big "tearfest" and I was smothered in a sea of silk khatas. Smooth trip home with Irish Customs taking a keen interest in the two kilos of this strange looking incense Gombu's mother had given me (for delivery to Tenzing Sherpa, Gombu's brother, who lives in New York).

"Bandh" on the run...

2009-04-06T05:31:00.002+01:00

"Bandh" is Hindi word meaning closed, and closed meaning entire nation of Nepal. Today, my alleged day to leave this beautiful country, 18 left wing parties including the Maoist have called for a one-day strike to disrupt some political gathering. Quite peaceful in Boudhnath where I am at the moment, but they are torching some taxis a few miles away. The driver says, "Not a problem, I know "secret" way to airport--Me thinks it's driver bonus time!

I'm Cake

2009-04-05T05:53:00.004+01:00

I've had a sea of tea, a mall of dal, and I have gone the distance. My daily Imodium is no longer optional and my polluted sinuses resemble a West Virginia coal mine. Instead of SDRs (Surveillance Detection Routes) like the old days, I now make sure the driver knows his DPRs (Diahrhea Protection Routes) so I can always bail and make a run for it. This morning there was a line of Sherpas at the house bringing me "small" packages to deliver to family members in New York. Enroute home tomorrow,I plan a high colonic in Bahrain, some weak tea in London, and plain boiled potatoes in Cork. The restaurant party sponsored by our New York guy, Mingmar Sherpa, was great fun. 25 Sherpas (ages 3 to 80) and me. It was held at a swank Newari restaurant complete with a pre-dinner floor show of traditional Nepali tribal dances. There was hysterics at the table from the older Sherpa women when a dance troupe of lithe girls (dressed like Sherpas but obviously not) pranced around. The next night was spent with Sonam Sherpa, whose husband Cammy used to work at my "local" in Tribeca, the Liquor Store Bar. Last night, at Lapka's (Gombu's brother) for dinner. He's the family drinker so it was the bottom-less San Miguel beer night. Tonite, I was hoping for a nice quiet evening with Gombu, Sumi, Sonam and Parmila--but honor has intervened and we must dine at Gombu's sister's house. This may be it for a day or two or I could be back right here tomorrow--there may be a nationwide strike shutting things down tomorrow...One never knows, but hopefully the next visit will be the family move here for 2010-2011. In spite of 26.3 million people living in a country the size of Greece, life expectancy of 61 years, female literacy 28% and 82% of the population living on less than $2 per day, Nepal is about its people and I highly encourage a visit. Sorry, didn't mean to be bleeding-heart preachy. I am feeling my time here coming to an end and saying goodbye to my hosts will be beyond difficult.

Chicks and Ducks and Geese better scurry...

2009-04-02T12:14:00.002+01:00

...when they spend the afternoon at Dakshinkali. I think today was the last official family sightseeing outing as the next few days will be for some goodbye parties and one last night with Gombu's family. Although this wasn't really a tourist trip, I have seen a pretty good bit of the Kathmandu valley. The two big "misses" this trip were Pokhara (Nepal's second biggest tourist city and a trek--although both were offered, I decided to stay closer to home) Today, we headed to the southern valley of Kathmandu. The morning was spent in Pharping, a traditional Newari village known for its Tibetan Buddhist monasteries. A bit like wandering around Vatican City but exactly the opposite--No Guides, No areas off-limits, lit many candles for loved ones and explored some sacred caves--quite a peaceful morning. After a spot of lunch, we hiked (just 40 minutes worth) down to Dakshinkali,a Hindu temple where plenty of uncastrated male animals were being slaughtered (for their blood only) and then bbqed and eaten a short distance away by the offering family. In hindsight, we might have reversed the order of the day.
On the way home through Kathmandu, we stopped at Bishwa Bhasha campus for International Languages. I had picked up some bar talk that this might be a route for the year-long visa. The place was quite empty and we were told by an instructor that the 3 main student political parties (Nepal, Maoist and Communist) had called a strike due to the on-going student elections that have turned violent at a number of campuses. Indeed, the bar talk was right--I could get a one-year student visa to study the Nepali language three hours a day five days a week. All for the lovely price of $1250 and proof I had $3000 in personal funds. Still going to explore the volunteer route, but good to know this is an option.
Off to a restaurant to be feted or "feasted on" by the Sherpa community. Either way, I am sure that without CW keeping my comments and liquor intake in check, I will make a spectacle of myself!!

Phew!

2009-04-01T07:57:00.004+01:00

Finally made it to Mingmar Sherpa's mother's house--Mingmar is currently our Sherpa on the ground in New York and replaced Gombu upon his return to Nepal. The logistics were not working out and I was getting panicked that I would offend her by not making her house one of my first stops. Gombu assured me that once I made the effort I was covered under Sherpa rules of conduct but I am glad it finally turned in to a real meeting this morning--She served myself and Gomba a typical "granny" breakfast: two eggs sunnyside up and tea with Yak butter--yep, tastes like it sounds!
Alot of nodding and smiling and some translation by Gombu. We are joining her at a restaurant for dinner either tonight or tomorrow night and Gombu told me to be prepared for a big crowd as word has gone out that Mingmar's boss is in town. This is when I truly need CW to save the day--her charm appeal is much greater than mine...

I am a man of questionable taste no longer...

2009-03-31T17:38:00.004+01:00

A new National Geographic book, "My Favorite Place on Earth" ($22.95) lists some preferred destinations of the "It" people: Tony Wheeler, founder of the Lonely Planet Guide Books, chooses Nepal, and fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi goes for Brooklyn. And our own Rick Steves nails it by choosing El Puerto (Edmonds not Mexico...)

Wouldn't hurt a fly...

2009-03-31T17:00:00.002+01:00

Tonight at dinner I was in process of trying to smash a mosquito between my hands when I realized where I was--Buddhists do not kill living creatures--Sumi (Gombu's wife), who I am discovering has a wicked sense of humor, informed me that yes, they do not kill any living creature. I did feel much better, when as an occassional lapsed Catholic, Sumi told me that they make exception for cockroaches.

Decent movie too...

2009-03-31T16:47:00.005+01:00

A mini-Monsoon (Film reccommendation: "Monsoon Wedding") hit Kathmandu this afternoon while I was dragging Gombu and driver around in search of long-term visa information and future volunteer opportunities. The good news: the pouring rain sends the motor bikers off the streets in droves so the roads become much more tolerable (I have got better on the white-knucke driving: I simply take an Imodium tablet prior to every journey--the passengers are happy and less laundry for me) The bad news about mini-Monsoon: Gombu's driver, while extremely competent and safe, has a strange aversion to windshield wipers and defroster buttons. Today, feeling my "Dirty Pants" tablet wearing off, I finally reached across and switched on the wipers and fans--My actions were met with an icey glare but I no longer felt like Erwin's tank driver in North Africa.

Those rude and arrogant French....

2009-03-31T16:29:00.004+01:00

Actually, the Director of the School (www.ecolenepal.com) Monique Dehon, charmed my socks off. She personally met me at the front gate and gave me a tour. Introduced me to all the teachers. It's definitely our cup of tea or pastis as it were. Reminds me of our fantasy school in Manhattan in the West Village--St. Lukes an Episcopal School that's out of our range both in price and probably acceptance (The school rejects about 90% of its applicants and let's face it--our kids our not that smart) The French School was recently certified as an official bilingual school (French-English) by the French Government. Coincidentally, there may be a new bilingual public school near our NYC neighborhood which may give ODC a headstart should we move to Nepal. And the French bus picks up near Gombu's house where we probably be living--the stars are lining up--NYC, then Kathmandu, then Paris...

Like the Lion from Oz...

2009-03-31T07:31:00.002+01:00

One of my goals while in Cork was to get a pedi-cab job. However, the Lord Mayor's idea to make Cork, Ireland a bike-friendly city seems to have gone the way of the Celtic Tiger economy. Kathmandu on the other hand seems to have plenty of pedi-cab job opportunities--but I think not for me. Last night I paid a driver several rupees for the opportunity to drive his pedi-cab down the pitch black streets of Kathmandu (Nepal is in the midst of 16 hour rolling power outages--turns out the Maoist are better at "rebelling" than governing) Fortified by a number of Jim Beam and Cokes from the Upstairs Jazz Bar (More on that later), I hurled down the strets toward on-coming headlights but a number of nearly tragic accidents has convinced me to seek other job opportunities--perhaps a life guard at Yost Pool...Off to see the French...Bone Swaah!!

One night in Thamel...

2009-03-30T04:27:00.002+01:00

...is enough. Like the French Quarter of New Orleans, Thamel of Kathmandu is best visited early morning when the hippies and trekkers are sleeping it off and the locals are starting their day. Nothing too eventful last night--some decent bars, some poor ones but I came across nothing exceptional as I expected in a one-night pub crawl. You do meet some pretty interesting people here though whose stories make your own life seem pretty tame. This morning (6 am--I didn't hurt myself too badly last night) was a great time to walk greater Thamel--one sight more inspiring and/or bizarre than the next as people find their way through mind-numbing poverty. Off to Lazimpat today (and night)--the neighborhood of embassies and aid agencies and a jazz club (Upstairs). Will also spend some time on my French tonight so I can think of some witty things to say in the interview with the French School Principal in hopes that older dreadful creature may one day be accepted.

Dateline: Thamel, Kathmandu

2009-03-29T09:27:00.004+01:00

I have regretfully left my peaceful surroundings in Boudha with my dear Sherpa friends, incredible food, wandering monks, etc.. for the touristy district of Kathamndu. I thought my friends could use a breather from big western guy for a few days. I walked to Daffodil School from Gombu's house today and met with the principal (No torture chamber in plain view but possibly something that looked like used waterboard with partial alaphabet written in crayon) The walk to the school from Gombu's house is exactly seven minutes down little alleyways and one big stairway. The principal was a pleasant Indian man--didn't quite get the same great vibe as I did from HIMS the other local school I checked out. He's concerned about Kate struggling with Nepali and may not be as flexible as to start of school year--Nepali school year starts in April--but, he definitely was positive about accepting Kate and they have a nursery school for Jack. After lunch, I packed up for my few days in Thamel and Gombu's driver took me on a dry run to French School (meet principal Tuesday afternoon) Not walking distance but a 15-20 minute drive which makes it a possible choice (I think the whole family would have to wear diapers for the first few months as we adjusted to the Kathmandu driving conditions.) Now I will try to find a cheap hotel for the night and begin my research. Later in the week Gombu thinks he may have a realtor to talk to about space in Thamel for a bar. Monday I am off to the American Embassy to see if they would consider a visitor visa for Gombu's ten year old so she can visit us and Sherpa family in New York. Unfortunately my writing isn't as interesting without the photos but will post those upon returning to Ireland. Last night myself and the little girls had a dance contest Sherpa vs. Disco--I lost, they could really bust the moves. See you tomorrow!

Surreal moment #2019 in Nepal

2009-03-28T04:06:00.006Z

If anything could get me to start posting again, I guess a trip to Kathmandu would be right up there. What am I doing in Nepal? Well, I seem to have found a fairly tolerant wife who is willing to send me off on my own for three weeks while she manages the home front and the two dreadful creatures. I should say that because we are living in Cork, Ireland we do have her loving, supportive family around as well as a stable of Irish student babysitters that we picked at random off the internet to care for the wildebeasts. I am primarily in Nepal for a long overdue visit to Gombu and Sumi Sherpa who worked for us in the bar and coffee house in New York but more importantly looked after our daughter Kate and were a constant presence in her life from the moment she was born to three years ago when they returned to Nepal. My other motivation for being in Nepal is to see if there is any way I can sell a move here to the Current Wife (CW) with the kids in about a year and a half (There should be an updated profile on the home page of the blog). Anyway, I have had a great time with Gombu and his family and Kathmandu has changed quite a bit since I was last here eleven years ago. I have visited two schools so far: The Lincoln School is the American School in Kathmandu and it would not be out of place in Manhattan both on beauty of its grounds and price of tuition. Unfortunately, it's on the complete wrong side of town for us as we will most likely be living near Boudha. The other school I visited was the Himilayan Internationl Model School (HIMS) a short motor bike ride from Gombu's house. The children would be breaking new ground as the first westerners at the school but I was told both the families of the Pakistan and Bangledeshi Ambassadors have attended the school. Lovely people and it remains in the mix. I have an appointment at the French School on Tuesday and then will take a look at Gombu's daughter's school, Daffodil which would be within walking distance. The one thing slightly disturbing about the Daffodfil School is that, according to nepalnews.com, its sister school is being investigated for torturing a third level student--and I don't mean spanking or timeout, I mean torture torture (Maybe the beatings Kate has received at St. Maries of the Isle aren't all that bad). I hope to have something suitable to present to CW upon my return to Ireland. I am also going to do some research on the job front (In my "vast" array of talents, writing not being among them, lies a Cambridge University Certificate for Teaching English as a Second Language (CELTA) To stay here over 150 days you need a work or student visa. Gombu is also keen on opening a bar with me in the touristy Thamel district. So as much as it pains me I am going to be doing some research on that front as well.
Ah yes, the surreal incident: So we are sitting around Gombu's house this morning eating breakfast when three monks walk in (I promise this isn't the beginning of a bad Buddha joke) No one at the table (Gombu, Sumi, Sonam, or Parmila) except me gives them a second glance. They start proceeding up the stairs to the Llama room (Gombu's entire fourth floor) which is used for prayer. Mid-stair, they stop and one monk begins pointing at Gombu's refrigerator--beer maybe? I then notice they are pointing at a picture of my daughter prominently displayed on Gombu's refrigerator. Finally Gombu takes notice and translates for me: Five and half years ago these same monks were in Woodside, Queens at Gombu's brother's house doing the annual family blessing. My daughter Kate happened to be there as well because that was where Gombu lived and he would babysit Kate there. At that time CW and I had only recently been introduced to the Sherpa community so you can imagine our surprise when we went to pick up Kate and found our chubby little 6 month old surrounded by three chanting monks. So, the monks had remembered Kate from that visit and then recognized her picture on Gombu's refrigerator (Gombu said the monks don't really hang with that many little white babies so they remembered Kate quite well even though almost six years have passed) In spite of Kate being dragged around the world and hanging out in bars, I think this is a good omen for her. And the monks were at Gombu's house for the annual family blessing--it takes two entire days as they have to read through an entire Buddhist "Bible". I let you know if they cheat at Poker when we are drinking and playing cards tonight. More later and unfortunately will not be able to post photos until my return to Ireland. I need a drink...I mean I am going to do some "bar research". What did the monk say to the New York hot dog vendor? Make me one with everything!

"I shall be so brief that I have already finished" Dali

2008-11-26T12:57:00.000Z

24 (Hours)

2008-11-04T17:07:00.006Z

The following takes place between 4 p.m. (PST) Thursday, October 30th and Midnight (GMT) Friday, October 31st, 2008. Events occurred in real time:

Thursday, October 30th

4 p.m. (PST)

Leave Edmonds

5 p.m.

Arrive Sea-Tac Airport

7:30 p.m.

Depart Seattle

10 hour flight

12:30 p.m. (GMT)

Arrive London Heathrow

2:00 p.m.

Check into Yotel Hotel (The only hourly hotel that welcomes

your wife

and kids as well and makes London Heathrow somewhat pleasant)

8:00 p.m.

Check out of Yotel Hotel

10:30 p.m.

Hour flight to Cork, Ireland

Midnight

Home

Jet lag is an ugly thing--will be back on in a bit--good to be "home"!

Progress Report...

2008-10-08T18:40:00.003+01:00

Two months plus in Cork and leaving for Paris, London, Seattle, New York for three weeks for our first extended trip out of Ireland...

REPORT CARD

Apartment A-

A garden would have been nice

St. Maries of the Isle B+

A couple more English speakers would have been nice

Cork A

Fantastic, vibrant city with nary a mall in site. English Market is both Pike Place Market and Union Square Farmer's Market.

CW's Family A

Have stepped up helping with the DCs and have given us plenty of space

Exploring Europe B-

Amsterdam, London, Paris...if we get Italy in November grade will go up a bit..

Exploring Ireland C

Dublin and Kilarney...a ways to go here especially only 2 pints in 2 counties...

Business prospects A-

Ahead of schedule...have incorporated, know what we need for wine license, found a neighborhood we like, opened business account..but, probably going to leave on trip without space unless potential landlord drops rent...

Overall, smooth move--probably will stay two years but if we don't have a business in Cork by fall, 2009, we will begin to look at other cities in Europe and then beyond...

I have no idea...

2008-10-04T07:54:00.000+01:00

Wine is fine, but beer...

2008-10-04T07:34:00.003+01:00

Oh, a pint would be nice about now (or several glasses of wine ago). No beer in wine bars here. The powerful publican lobby has seen to that. All the places I visited were perfectly respectable (and I was as well--pretty much), but nothing special. Trying to find that place where you say, "Ah, this would work in Cork..or Edmonds..or New York, etc.."--it just doesn't happen. To be in this business, you have to possess a certain amount of confidence and a lot of lack of risk aversion. You can never be certain what's going to work--doesn't matter if you spend ten grand or ten million. One thing we don't mind is opening in an economic downturn (understated?) as you get a better sense of reality of the business you will do over time. Our first bar (in New York) opened in December, 2001--not a great time in New York.

A trip to the Big City...

2008-10-04T07:08:00.005+01:00

Dado is going to America for a while so we rented a car for a mid-week visit to Kilkenny--actually, CW and DCs went to visit Dado. They dropped me at the Thomastown Train Station-makes Edmonds Depot look like Grand Central--for a two hour ride to Dublin. Yes, the big city (of Ireland). After several months in Cork, arriving in Dublin is like being on a different planet--smooth, suave, sophisticated--at least by Irish standards. I was travelling to Dublin under the pretext of going to the Irish Food Show--lots and lots of cheese--as well as a couple of nights of "researching" wine bars as we are thinking about taking the wine bar plunge in quiet little Cork. The food show was like all the others I have attended over the years. The highlight was finally meeting John Gowan, who owns Cork City Coffee Roasters. Great coffee and John is married to an Edmonds gal (nee Strickland) and he used to live there. His retail store happens to be a few doors down from where we are thinking about opening the wine bar--it will be an Edmonds Dynasty! Time to drink some wine!

2 Down, 30 to Go...

2008-10-04T07:03:00.001+01:00

International Bar, County Dublin, Dublin

This is where things go horribly wrong...

2008-09-28T14:09:00.002+01:00

Several months ago, I went to pick up our rental car for the trip to Dado's house in Killkenny. The car rental space is located on McCurtain Street on the northside of the city, across the River Lee, a short hop from city centre. Several doors down from the car rental place, I noticed an empty storefront that used to be a traditional music store: and I thought--that would make a good bar. Which, for those of you who know me, is not such a big deal. I think every space I see would make a good bar and fortunately for all of us other people exist who are able to envision hospitals, parks, museums...Didn't think of the space again until recently after I had made some inquiries on some other spaces in different neighborhoods. I kept coming back to the space though and finally started asking around the neighborhood who owned it. Turns out the space used to be part of the restaurant next door (the blocked up archway in the photo was the door that connected the spaces), but the owner let some friends use it for a music shop. I called the restaurant a number of times looking for the owner to no avail and was told the space had been rented already. Anyway, finally reached the owner, George, and yes indeed he had committed the space to a take away shop. But, he said to call him in a couple of weeks because his tenant was "messing around" with the lease. A week or so later, when CW was getting her eyes checked (the stability of our relationship is based mostly on her poor eye sight--I've told her I kind of look like Gabriel Byrne if she squints) in the neighborhood, I was "skulking" around the space as I tend to do. Well, lo and behold the door opened and out popped George. I introduced myself and told him I was very interested in the space. Yes, he said, you told me that a week ago on the phone. He did ask, however, what I wanted to do with the space and I said wine bar. Hmmm, said George, give me a call Monday (it was then Friday) and we'll see where my current tenant is. Monday came around and I went and met George. He told me that the take-away guy still wanted the shop but George's wife liked the idea of a wine bar in the space (leave it to the women!) Anyway, I then gave George a package of photos and reviews of our New York and Edmonds bars as well as an Irish attorney and an Irish accountant who "represented" "my company" (I got their names out of the phone book and was trying to get an appointment with them). So here we are. No lease signed yet but it looks promising. Are we out of our minds? There are probably 5000 pubs in Cork City and exactly one wine bar (Meade's) Hmmm? The publicans here have a very strong lobby and will do anything to keep the value of pub licenses (okay to serve beer wine spirits without food) extremely high (200,000-400,000 Euro just for the license) However, the whole wine thing is a bit new here so wine licenses are not an issue as publicans see no threat. In order to serve beer with wine however, we would have to serve a "substantial meal", have no bar, and only serve beer with the meal. Screw that! Will a wine bar work in Cork? Not a clue but why not roll the dice. Off to a restaurant show in Dublin this week as well as to check out the wine bar scene there. Did meet with an accountant (good) and attorney (expensive) We have the accountant forming a company just in case we go ahead with this but the attorney stuff I am attempting to do to save money. Also, trying to get up to speed with health and building codes, where to find carpenters (Irish carpenters? really?) plumbers, electricians, etc.., etc... Even if we don't go ahead with this space, the education has been interesting. And, CORK would most likely replace MILAN on the window. More to follow!

Not "Child's Play"

2008-09-13T14:30:00.006+01:00

This is not Chucky from the aforementioned movie and I was subject to the wrath of my Dutch friend Sylvia when I suggested as much. Apparently, it's a well-known much-loved Dutch doll from her childhood-oops. And when I staggered up two flights of steep stairs (Dutch go up not out with their houses--right up there with Bangladesh in per capita population per area) after drinking strong European beer all night,(Quick bad joke: what do American beer and making love in a canoe have in common? Both f$x@ing next to water) this "doll" was waiting on my pillow. Anyway, more on my last night later. Trip was great. Friday: Walked from our apartment in the pouring rain to the bus stop where I got the 6 a.m. bus to the airport (5 Euro--not bad) My flight to London Stanstead was 9 Euro but because Ryan Air likes the add on charges I had to check-in at the gate (5 Euro) because no EU passport. Then once through security, things looked quite a bit different than, say Sea-Tac: Lots of 7 a.m. drinking at the bars. And it's everyone, not just a bunch of louts or hens going away for the weekend--people actually treating travel as something to celebrate--SeaTac? Beer at 7 a.m.? Sure. Nice smooth 1 hour flight to London--well London Stanstead, an easy train ride to London Liverpool Station. Took the tube a few stops to Marble Arch and found my hotel (Where my mom and aunt were also staying on their tour). Had a nice wander around the Grosvenor Square area where I was assigned for a while with that "Government" job--one of my favorite pubs--Red Lion--where I had a drink with thee Tom Jones-- was boarded up--wonder if he still has my boxer shorts I gave him? Anyway, eventually found my mom and Rose Marie and because we were in London, we went out for Chinese food???? Next day, we went to Harrod's--wow, I am not much of a shopper but this store is pretty impressive! No wonder Di was gonna hook up with this family. Went to a proper English pub for dinner and then I headed on the train to Harwich where I boarded the overnight ferry to the Netherlands--very impressive for 51 sterling--my own huge en-suite room, casino, restaurants, kids areas, cinema--had a bite/drink and then woke up as we were pulling up to Holland. Quick train to Amsterdam and an easy tram to my hotel. Ahhh, Amsterdam. London left me a bit cold apart from some nice memories of previous visits--but Amsterdam--8 months to 80 years--all on bikes--in sweats and tuxedos and evening dresses.\ Yes, I am a sucker for bike transportation as those of you know who know me know well. Borrowed a bike at my hotel and went riding around--hadn't been to Amsterdam in a few years so took a while to get my bearings. Red Light District: like any good thing, used to be better. Now tour buses fill up the streets and it's a parody of itself. But anyway, I went looking for it just to see its current state. Missed it by a block (how is that possible?) and ended up in Cafe 't Mandje, a bar founded by one of Amsterdam's first open Lesbians--Bet van Beeren (1927-2007). Great mixed crowd and loads better than the Red Light District. More biking/drinking next day and then a lunch with mom and Rose Marie. Took the commuter train out 30 minutes to Sylvia (Dutch) and Johns' (Scottish) house--they have two dreadful creatures about DCs' ages. Have known these two friends ten years plus so a great visit even though Sylvia pointed out that they weren't those hip Dutch people who live in City Centre and put a family of four on a bike. After a great night of Moroccan food, German beer, and a frightful night with Chucky, I was on my flight back to Cork. All well at home except YDC freaked out at first day of preschool--CW left him anyway. This weekend, I am on my own (payback??) with the DCs as CW is off to Dado's to see some relations. That's it--looking forward to Edmonds. May take one more trip before Edmonds to Littlehampton UK to buy a Dutch bike--21 hour ferry ride home--ouch!!. My new favorite web site: "The Man in Seat 61"--thinking about the train to Casa Blanca in November! And also for anyone interested, I am doing Wainwright's Coast to Coast walk in June, 2009. If you can walk and then drink, this is for you. It's a 190 mile walking pub crawl from sea to sea.

London Calling

2008-09-04T15:33:00.006+01:00

I am off to see me mum and her sister in London tomorrow. Then getting a overnight ferry to Amsterdam Saturday night(don't worry, it's the Belgians who forget to close the doors on their boats -circa 1987) where I will hook up with them on Sunday. Visiting Dutch/Scotish friends Monday night outside Amsterdam and then home Tuesday. Will try to report from the road and any Red Light District visits will be pure as well as purely in the name of research. Doei!

Dutch lesson: doei (do-we) = goodbye

Hey, you talking to me?

2008-09-03T11:53:00.002+01:00

This is ODC and her new friend Eva at St. Maries of the Isle lounging around the classroom. As soon as we figure out what language Eva's parents speak, we are going to invite her over for a play date.

"I got the news today, oh boy..."

2008-09-03T11:33:00.003+01:00

Today Older Dreadful Creature brought home St. Maries of the Isle official "Track Suit" policy. Track suits are to be worn to school on Mondays and Wednesdays. The good news is that we don't have to spend any more money on extra jumpers at Marks and Sparks as well as feeling that we have been truly accepted by the posh Irish track suit crowd--most mornings I go to the gym(no life of leisure here) after dropping ODC at school so it's possible that we may be walking together in matching suits. If I can get YDC and the trouble and strife in them, the world is our oyster!!!

Rhyming Cockney slang lesson: Marks and Sparks = Marks and Spencer, a UK- based department store

Trouble and strife = wife

Root cause of Irish underage drinking solved (by me)

2008-09-03T11:23:00.003+01:00

According to our Irish Lonely Planet Guide, there are exactly four children's activities in all of Ireland: Fota Wildlife Park, Kilarney Jaunting Cars, a musuem in County Kerry, and some dolphin that's tame enough to swim with. Well, we have been here a month, and have already done two of the four kids' activities. This past weekend we did the traditional Kilarney Jaunting Car with the dreadful creatures--I think these Irish horsemen work off-season at Central Park's carriage rides.

"He ain't heavy, he's my..."

2008-08-29T23:45:00.001+01:00

This is gonna cost us some counseling sessions...

Whew!

2008-08-29T23:36:00.000+01:00

Made it through Day One--and not any visible marks!

"Mama pyjama rolled outta bed..."

2008-08-29T23:11:00.002+01:00

This makes Holy Rosary Edmonds seem absolutely Bucolic!

Call. Blow. Pump.

2008-08-29T23:06:00.002+01:00

ODC teaching classmate CPR--grade promotion any day now!

Theme music from Jaws

2008-08-29T23:01:00.002+01:00

ODC cautiously approaches St. Maries of the Isle--probably shouldn't have let her watch the Magdalene Sisters last night.

"Attention class. Class attention. Class! Shut up!!!! Thank you.

2008-08-29T22:25:00.004+01:00

We knew we liked Older Dreadful Creature's (ODC) teacher when she rugby tackled a little Irish boy who, not quite ready to leave the cocoon, was running crying after his parents. She was still restraining him when we left the classroom--fantastic! Eggs are meant to be coddled in Europe, but not children. We had also wanted a bit of cultural diversity for ODC and boy we got it--I thought I had wandered into a United Nations Peace Conference when I walked into the classroom. Further investigation required, but my guess is our ODC and the little Irish boy are the only native English speakers--that's inner city Ireland 2008. No automated bell system but rather a nun walking the halls with a hand bell. Anyway, ODC loved her first day!

Let the Beatings begin...

2008-08-28T21:49:00.003+01:00

Tomorrow is Older Dreadful Creature's (ODC) first day in "Junior Infants" (???) at St. Maries of the Isle in Cork, Ireland. Her fourth school in four years, three cities and two countries--she will be well-prepared for next year: French military boarding school. We wandered over to the school today to buy some supplies and her official St. Maries of the Isle track suit (for real) and we're talking "old school" Roman Catholic: nuns in habits (carrying black jacks--just kidding), etc...--but extremely friendly welcoming people. ODC will be studying the ever practical Irish language (I thought it was the Chinese who were going to take over the world) and a multitude of other subjects. The older school girls were out on the streets today in a various array of lovely uniforms--two things Holy Rosary Edmonds could take note of: school ties and no white tennis shoes or sneakers on the young ladies or boys for that matter--looked so much nicer. We were also told that that school is so cold in the winter that the kids wear their track suits-- all day--to keep warm and also prepare them for Irish professional life.

Irish lesson: "Now I'd be deceiving yeh if I'd said yes or no" = I don't know