'Sitting in this airplane station...

ticket for my destination. Homeward bound. Not. Oh, the joy of changing tickets and boarding that flight to Shannon or Dublin and calling it a day. But Seattle beckons where a few more meetings await. My travel is approaching the level of my days with the "Government" and they start playing the theme from Cheers when I walk into the JFK Terminal 5 Bar. Oh well, all on behalf of the family. While I have nothing on paper yet, I am getting closer and closer to sealing at least one of these potential bar deals--please hurry, my liver is getting impatient for some rest!

Shady Park, Long Island City, New York 4:42 p.m. April 27

Though we are still talking through the various options, the neighborhood of L.I.C. remains our most likely destination upon our return to New York in August. Although we no longer own a bar in the neighborhood, it's a manageable walk to Greenpoint, the train (subway) is 4 minutes to Grand Central Station (and the rest of Manhattan), and it has several parks like this one where you can basically leave your kid by yelling, "Hey, I'm leaving my kid". L.I.C. also has the preschool, Little Ones, that Older Dreadful Creature (ODC) attended--that makes YDC a legacy so in spite of his deficiencies, they have to take him! It's a neighborhood where we have no chance of being anonymous which is one of our few trepidations about returning.

Central Park New York April 24th 1:57 p.m

"Come, my Friends, 'Tis not too late to seek a newer world. Push off, and sitting well in order smite the sounding furrows; for my purpose holds to sail beyond the sunset, and the baths of the western stars until I die. It may be the gulfs will wash us down: It may be we shall touch the Happy Isles."
Tennyson
My dear friend, New York City resident and world traveler, Bill Wormington, reached a final resting place this weekend when we spread his ashes among the cherry trees in Central Park.

Day 'Trippin

1. That's the Dreadful Creatures enjoying 100 Euro Room Service and the million dollar view (of Cartoon Network).
2 The big white building in the distance is our seaside hotel, the Cliff House, in Ardmore, County Waterford
Kate is on her second week of school holiday, I leave for the 'States tomorrow, so yesterday we decided to head to the beach for the "day" for a change in scenery. Nine years ago CW and I had splendid overnight in the seaside town of Ardmore in County Waterford. We were on our way from CW's father's to CW's mother's and I decided I should have some down time. The tiny town of Ardmore (pop. 415) met my requirements: local PUB, bistro with non-Irish undercooked food, beach, cheap B and B and the best chips I have had to date: served piping hot, in a plain brown bag with lots of salt, steps from the beach. We thought (9 years later): our kids will like this! The drive from Cork City: 52 minutes--perfect! Found a beach with a playground, bought a picnic lunch at local shop, did a "scare-rafying" windy cliff walk, and then decided too far to drive back to Cork, must stay the night. Checked out all cheap accommodation and found they were still closed for the season. Then checked out only open hotel in Ardmore: the 5 star Cliff House. CW and I decided we would stay if we came within 5 Euros of guessing the price--we both came in at 170 Euros per night. I went in (left CW and Dreadful Creatures in car) and inquired. Pleasant plump (PP) girl quoted me a rate of 170 Euros (spot on) and then I f***ed up and mentioned we had children in tow. She then said an extra rollaway bed would be an additional 70 Euro (which by no rationale put this place out of our price range). Asked if we could forego extra bed and save 70 Euros, PP said she would have to check. Went back to car, told CW story, and she went in. Unbeknownst to me, she dealt with Skinny Minny Mean Girl (SMMG) who said extra bed was mandatory (as well as 70 Euro charge) and then told CW that "did she mind, she had guests to check in". CW came back out, gave me details, and we decided that 52 minute drive back to Cork was a bit too much for us to handle. I went back in to hotel, asked SMMG if they had any rooms, she said, "Two adults?", I said "Yes", and she said, "Lovely, 170 Euros". At that moment, PP came up and said, "Oh, you will be needing the extra bed", SMMG said, "No just two adults". I looked at PP, She looked at me, didn't say anything, and I guiltily took my "unofficial" discount. To celebrate our good fortune, I took the family to the local pub and we celebrated with two pints and two Fantas. Back to 5 Star Cliff House, I went in, got key, and CW and children went up via side stairs. Usual hotel arrival ritual: CW bathes Dreadful Creatures, I retire to bar to source out scene--pretty well-groomed crowd (Is that Bono and his son?). Two 6 Euro pints of Carlsberg, back to room, and order room service. I decide that we should do a family movie and order "Role Models" on Pay-per-View. Uh, not so appropriate, DCs fall asleep, and CW and I head to bar (We didn't leave DCs unattended--left my cell phone on in room and took CW's phone to bar-if Cartoon Network was replaced by screams over phone, time to ask for check.) Had a lovely drink, back to sleeping creatures, and home today. Have decided to buy cottage in Ardmore once we quit our 5 Star Hotel habit and have discovered Hotel did not charge us for our 100 Euro Dinner--Strangely enough, we are going to call and report their mistake. Go figure! Oh, that would be the door-hey, it's my last night in town--of course we have a babysitter!

Withdrawal Symptoms...

Yes, it's that time of the year when we begin to get ready to switch cities or countries. I gave notice at Jack's creche (Irish for daycare) place today. His last day will be July 15th. Also, enrolled Kate in a week-long day camp (July 6-10) so CW and myself can go out (and pack of course).

The Meek shall inherit...

passports, lots of passports. In addition to expiring leases on a bunch of bars and a bunch of stuff acquired in our travels in those bars' basements, our children are inheriting basically nothing (Well, a big life insurance policy if we crash and burn on one of our childless trips) We have managed however to secure them both US and EU passports with New Zealand (CW's birth country) ones in the works. That gives them a fairly wide range of live/work/school possibilities. I mean, how many countries can you fail in?--well, they are our kids!

WW"Oprah"D?

What? Isn't this what every absentee parent does upon return from their travels? Oh, this isn't a toy store this is Kate's bedroom.

A pint of Easter...

Easter is a pretty big deal in Catholic Ireland (as evidenced by all the pubs in the entire country being closed on Good Friday). The adjustment of going from the peacefulness of the Third World to the chaos of the First World (and the two Dreadful Creatures) has been at times a touch rough. CW and DCs fled to her sister's house for an overnight on Friday and with the pubs being closed, I had my own international night at home: New York Mets on the radio, Read Inspector Rebus, and drank a couple of French Lagers. Things have leveled for the moment: CW and DCs went to Granny Vi's for Easter Dinner and I went and watched rugby: two big wins for the Irish in the aptly named Heineken Cup.

Goodbye to Pelu Sherpa (and Nepal)!

Goodbye to Gombu!

My hosts!

Gombu, Sumi, Parmila and Sonam

Say no more...

and I know many of you wish I would take my own advice...especially after that last post...I plead jet lag punchiness! Signing off for now...

Rules Rules Rules

Boudhnath, where we would be living if we move to Nepal, is obviously a conservative town, but is 3 really necessary?

Madness!

Gombu covered my vices and then some when he selected the guest house in Nagarkot after our hike...

No Bar too Far

Yes, even high up in the Himalaya's--now that's the oxygen I'm talking about...Nargarkot, Nepal.

This is not Goodbye...

These are the two little angels that made leaving Nepal even more difficult. Sonam, on the right, is Gombu and Sumi's daugther whom they adopted when she was born in Kathmandu. They then left her with Gombu's sister for seven years while they worked in New York. Parlima joined the family two months ago. She's a Rai (vs. Sherpa) from the hills of eastern Nepal. Her father, whom Gombu knows from his climbing days, asked Gombu and Sumi to take Parlima because he had too many mouths to feed. Her hair Sumi finally had to shave because of the large amount of creatures tangled inside.

"No stop signs, speed limit...

I'm on a highway to.... Somewhat disconcertingly, Gombu and I were walking towards whatever these monks were walking away from. Chinese army maybe?

Spring is in the Air...

Hey, just like the "fresh water" geeks at 164th Street in Lynnwood, Washington!

Time for my shower..

Came across this fellow when I walked to Pashupatinath for the day. The village has Nepal's most important Hindu temple and the Bagmati River where funeral pyres are constantly burning. This guy certainly plays the off-season at Fisherman's Wharf San Francisco based on his "well-versedness" in "rupees for photo" routine.

Daphnes etiquette adjustments..

Better than "Main Street Kids" or "Little Ones"

Why Jack wants to move to Nepal...

Pelu Sherpa

Gombu's mother and notorious incense smuggler (and married...note apron)

Kate Sherpa...

in traditional Sherpa dress and ready to make move anywhere her parents will continue to remain "under" employed. A striped apron will go over the dress once she is married. (Note: If ever invited to Sherpa wedding, don't eat the wedding cake, don't even go there--sorry Sumi!)

Do you know the Muffin Man...

Like the many Egg Men of Kathmandu who prowl the streets early in the morning, I too I am feeling a touch delicate after twenty-four hours of travel. But I am home safe, the dreadful creatures are well, and CW continues to eye the calendar for April 18 when I depart again to Seattle/New York. The trip to Tribhuvan Airport was uneventful, though the streets were eerily quiet. Driver's "secret" way through roadblocks: a crudely written sign, "Tourist Only" in front window. The airport was a big "tearfest" and I was smothered in a sea of silk khatas. Smooth trip home with Irish Customs taking a keen interest in the two kilos of this strange looking incense Gombu's mother had given me (for delivery to Tenzing Sherpa, Gombu's brother, who lives in New York).

"Bandh" on the run...

"Bandh" is Hindi word meaning closed, and closed meaning entire nation of Nepal. Today, my alleged day to leave this beautiful country, 18 left wing parties including the Maoist have called for a one-day strike to disrupt some political gathering. Quite peaceful in Boudhnath where I am at the moment, but they are torching some taxis a few miles away. The driver says, "Not a problem, I know "secret" way to airport--Me thinks it's driver bonus time!

I'm Cake

I've had a sea of tea, a mall of dal, and I have gone the distance. My daily Imodium is no longer optional and my polluted sinuses resemble a West Virginia coal mine. Instead of SDRs (Surveillance Detection Routes) like the old days, I now make sure the driver knows his DPRs (Diahrhea Protection Routes) so I can always bail and make a run for it. This morning there was a line of Sherpas at the house bringing me "small" packages to deliver to family members in New York. Enroute home tomorrow,I plan a high colonic in Bahrain, some weak tea in London, and plain boiled potatoes in Cork. The restaurant party sponsored by our New York guy, Mingmar Sherpa, was great fun. 25 Sherpas (ages 3 to 80) and me. It was held at a swank Newari restaurant complete with a pre-dinner floor show of traditional Nepali tribal dances. There was hysterics at the table from the older Sherpa women when a dance troupe of lithe girls (dressed like Sherpas but obviously not) pranced around. The next night was spent with Sonam Sherpa, whose husband Cammy used to work at my "local" in Tribeca, the Liquor Store Bar. Last night, at Lapka's (Gombu's brother) for dinner. He's the family drinker so it was the bottom-less San Miguel beer night. Tonite, I was hoping for a nice quiet evening with Gombu, Sumi, Sonam and Parmila--but honor has intervened and we must dine at Gombu's sister's house. This may be it for a day or two or I could be back right here tomorrow--there may be a nationwide strike shutting things down tomorrow...One never knows, but hopefully the next visit will be the family move here for 2010-2011. In spite of 26.3 million people living in a country the size of Greece, life expectancy of 61 years, female literacy 28% and 82% of the population living on less than $2 per day, Nepal is about its people and I highly encourage a visit. Sorry, didn't mean to be bleeding-heart preachy. I am feeling my time here coming to an end and saying goodbye to my hosts will be beyond difficult.

Chicks and Ducks and Geese better scurry...

...when they spend the afternoon at Dakshinkali. I think today was the last official family sightseeing outing as the next few days will be for some goodbye parties and one last night with Gombu's family. Although this wasn't really a tourist trip, I have seen a pretty good bit of the Kathmandu valley. The two big "misses" this trip were Pokhara (Nepal's second biggest tourist city and a trek--although both were offered, I decided to stay closer to home) Today, we headed to the southern valley of Kathmandu. The morning was spent in Pharping, a traditional Newari village known for its Tibetan Buddhist monasteries. A bit like wandering around Vatican City but exactly the opposite--No Guides, No areas off-limits, lit many candles for loved ones and explored some sacred caves--quite a peaceful morning. After a spot of lunch, we hiked (just 40 minutes worth) down to Dakshinkali,a Hindu temple where plenty of uncastrated male animals were being slaughtered (for their blood only) and then bbqed and eaten a short distance away by the offering family. In hindsight, we might have reversed the order of the day.
On the way home through Kathmandu, we stopped at Bishwa Bhasha campus for International Languages. I had picked up some bar talk that this might be a route for the year-long visa. The place was quite empty and we were told by an instructor that the 3 main student political parties (Nepal, Maoist and Communist) had called a strike due to the on-going student elections that have turned violent at a number of campuses. Indeed, the bar talk was right--I could get a one-year student visa to study the Nepali language three hours a day five days a week. All for the lovely price of $1250 and proof I had $3000 in personal funds. Still going to explore the volunteer route, but good to know this is an option.
Off to a restaurant to be feted or "feasted on" by the Sherpa community. Either way, I am sure that without CW keeping my comments and liquor intake in check, I will make a spectacle of myself!!

Phew!

Finally made it to Mingmar Sherpa's mother's house--Mingmar is currently our Sherpa on the ground in New York and replaced Gombu upon his return to Nepal. The logistics were not working out and I was getting panicked that I would offend her by not making her house one of my first stops. Gombu assured me that once I made the effort I was covered under Sherpa rules of conduct but I am glad it finally turned in to a real meeting this morning--She served myself and Gomba a typical "granny" breakfast: two eggs sunnyside up and tea with Yak butter--yep, tastes like it sounds!
Alot of nodding and smiling and some translation by Gombu. We are joining her at a restaurant for dinner either tonight or tomorrow night and Gombu told me to be prepared for a big crowd as word has gone out that Mingmar's boss is in town. This is when I truly need CW to save the day--her charm appeal is much greater than mine...